Lo han jai, otherwise known as Buddha’s Delight or Buddha’s Feast (and sometimes just called jai) is my lunar new year essential. With origins in Buddhist monk cuisine, it is vegan to observe the custom of not eating any meat on New Year’s Day (because meat involves killing and that is not auspicious during the new year).
Traditionally, this dish is made without the use of any alliums (in accordance with Buddhist belief that plants from onion family excite the senses). However, I do use ginger and scallions in my recipe.
There is no single recipe for lo han jai. Rather, like many traditional recipes, it is a work in progress, dependent upon both family customs and pantry ingredients. The key is bringing together ingredients with lots of different textures. While many of the ingredients may not look familiar, they are actually easily found at most Asian grocery stores. I’ve done some research and you can find the red (and white) fermented bean curd, dried lily flowers and tofu skin from here in Australiaand here in USA. If you have stockists from other countries, please leave your tips in the comments below.
My mum’s essential ingredients are shiitake mushrooms, dried lily flowers, bean curd skin, tofu puffs, lotus root, water chestnut, mung bean vermicelli and fresh greens. She also added an ingredient which my kids call ‘hair’ – a black moss called fat choy (now almost impossible.
Lo han jai is traditionally made with naam yu or red fermented bean curd, which imparts a distinct funky saltiness. It can be found fairly easily at Chinese grocery stores. If you can’t find it (understandable), substitute with another fermented soy bean product – miso is the best substitute but you could also try chinese fermented black soy beans or doenjang. They will not give you the exactly the same result, but it will give you an acceptable representation of this dish.
If you didn’t grow up in a Chinese family, this dish may feel unattainable or unfamiliar but I encourage you to give it a go. It’s a textural feast and goes really well just with a bowl of rice.