Mushroom ragu bianco

Mushroom ragu bianco

A white ragu or ragu bianco has no tomatoes; some recipes add milk to the mix. My mushroom version is vegan and  is made the same way as a meat ragu, with the stock added in intervals. The slow and gradual adding of stock enables the flavours of the mushroom to concentrate, and to meld more cohesively. However, unlike meat ragu, which needs low and slow cooking, this mushroom version comes together quicker. You’ll be amazed by how deep the flavours become in such a short time. The final knob of butter brings richness, while the swig of vinegar injects life, rounding out the savouriness, sweetness and earthiness of the mushrooms – don’t skip it.

This recipe can be made of your choice of mushrooms. Use a mix of oysters, shiitakes and creminis (called swiss browns in Australia), but you could also use the same variety. Shiitakes add a nice chew which stays quite firm after cooking.

If you want it more ‘shroomy, use mushroom stock in place of the vegetable stock.

Serves 4 / vegan, gluten free

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Ingredients

• handful (about 10g / 0.3 oz) dried porcini mushrooms
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 2 carrots, peeled and diced
• 2 celery stalks, diced
• 1 brown/yellow onion, diced
• sea salt and black pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon white sugar
• 1 cup vegetable stock
• 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 2 sprig rosemary, leaves chopped
• 10 sage leaves, chopped
• 1/2 cup cooking wine (white wine, rice wine etc)
• 450g (1 pound) mushrooms (any variety)
• 2 tablespoons vegan (or regular) butter
• 2 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar

1. Soak the porcini mushrooms in 1 cup warm water for 5-10 minutes.

2. Heat a large pot or Dutch oven on medium high. When hot, add olive oil, along with the onions, carrots, celery. Add the sugar and season with salt and black pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables have softened and are starting to turn golden, 7-8 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, remove the porcini mushrooms from the soaking water (keep the water!), squeeze out the liquid and roughly chop the mushrooms. Add the vegetable stock to the porcini soaking water - you should have about 2 cups of stock now.

4. To the vegetables, add the garlic, rosemary and sage and stir for 1 minute until fragrant. Add the wine and cook for one minute, stirring, to allow the alcohol to cook off. Add the porcini mushrooms and then the other mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms have started to soften, about 2 minutes.

5. With the heat still on medium high, add about 1/2 cup of stock and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes. Add another 1/2 cup of stock, and cook, stirring occasionally, for another 2 minutes. Repeat this process 2 more times until the stock has been used up.

6. After all the stock has been added, cover with lid, reduce heat to medium-low and cook for 5 minutes. Turn off the heat. Uncover and stir in the butter and vinegar. Taste and season with salt and pepper if needed.

7. Serve the mushroom ragu bianco with pasta, rice or polenta.